Jack the car and place on axle stands
Optionally dismount the brake calipers, two 19 mm bolts or two 10mm allen bolts, to make the work a bit easier.
Slacken the four bolts (13 mm) on top of each shock tower a little
If you loosen the top nut by 22mm 1/2 a turn while it's still in the car with weight on it, it'll be easier later and here comes a challenge. You will need to counterhold the centre (either a 7mm allen or tab) while undoing the nut with your choice of weapon!
A deep socket and impact wrench
A rod welded to the side of deep socket
Open socket with a special ring wrench
If discarding the old strut: vice-grips on the shaft and socket
The bolts that hold the strut have 17 mm bolt heads and 19 mm locknuts. They may be very stubborn and 'dry' so good tools may be necessary, especially a breaker bar, a ratchet and good quality impact sockets.You really need to spray/soak these fasteners with a penatrant first, repeat spraying so penatrant is able to dissolve rust etc. Let sit over night for really stubborn hardware. Try Wurth Rost Off, PB Blaser or Plus gas, they really are effective.
NOTE: Make sure that you scribe the strut bottom side in relation to the spindle assembly, so that you can adjust it to the original position upon assembly, This adjustment is made with the eccentric bolt! The proper torque setting for these nuts is 74 ft lbs
After removing the 19 mm nut, try to rotate the lower bolt with a 17 mm socket and a breaker bar. If they are so tight they will need more than that. Free them with a swift hammer blow, but that is not the recommended way to do it. Remove the top bolt first then the bottom.
Prise the retaining clip off the brake pipe mount and move the strut towards the front of the car paying close attention to the brake pipe
Take the complete strut, and but it in a vice or similar. Attach the screw-in claws, two to a spring and start compressing the spring. This is obviously a critical part of the job, not because it is tricky, but because the spring will be loaded with considerable power when compressed, and potentially dangerous. I recommend two double clawed compressors on each spring, three if they are of the simpler one claw type. After compressing the spring 5-7 cm, the spring will be fully movable and not bind into the spring cups at all. Then, the large 22 mm nut can be released as above. From the top there will be a anodized cup, a bearing mounted in a rubber holder and a spring cup - all will come loose after releasing the 22 mm nut. The bearing cup has a detachable rubber part on top of it, it may come loose. Then, carefully lift out the compressed spring, and put it away for a while. Clean and lubricate the bearing/bushing holder, and remove all residue from the rubber parts. Remove the rubber block and the dust shield from the shock shaft and clean them too.
Check on the upper bearing (above the spring plate) it tends to seize causing extra force to be required to steer the car... worth replacing at
The old part no. 951.343.018.013 is obsolete.
The new part no. is 951.343.018.04 at $122.16 ea. (dealer)
There is also a foam ring "bedding" ring
It is slightly sticky to touch compresses easily and decompresses slowly
Replace the rubber block and the dust shield. Then put the compressed spring back on, then the top spring cup, then the bearing holder, then the top cup. Use the new nuts that comes with the Konis and do not forget the spring washer, albeit there was none on the original... Now, there is another way to counter hold the shaft, as the strut has a flat for a spanner instead of a 7 mm allen key hole. If there is no loose parts left, except for a 22 mm old nut, and everything looks the way it should (compare with the other strut...) then, start unwinding those spring compressors. Make sure that the spring ends seat in the dents in each spring cup. Proceed to strut nr two and repeat.
It is a good idea to replace the bolts.
The eccentric bolt (part # 171.407.265) for alignment
Lower bolt M-12 *1.5 * 50mm (part # 133.513.471).
You will also need the eccentric washer (part # 171.407.267) The nuts are 9VM-12 *1.5) part # N.022.141.4. Do not reuse the nuts! This hardware can be ordered through any Porsche dealer. When assembling use anti-seize on the threads.
A alignment is probably a good thing to do, but if you have been careful, it is only the camber that have been disturbed and it will not be much off.
Other tools required:
17 mm and 19 mm ring spanner and/or sockets 13 mm ring spanner or socket Breaker bar, hammer, drift
Two double clawed spring compressors